There is the house (now a museum) of one of the most eminent Bulgarian writers (born in Veliko Tarnovo) of the 20th century-Emiliyan Stanev. Walking down the little square you will pass by the coppersmith’s workshop and that is where the cobbled street ends. You have now reached Velchova zavera square and the new, modern town is right in front of you. The old days are just a step behind and one can always go back into the peace of the past times.
Choose the early Sunday mornings (when there are not many tourists around yet) and you will feel the real charm of the old trade centre. The small workshops are all closed and there is not a single soul around. The only sign of human presence is the fragrance of freshly baked bread and the sweet tempting caramel scent of the sugar roosters. Please your senses and go into the shekerdjiinitsa (the small coffee shop)- it is the only place that is opened now. Try the Turkish coffee made on sand- it goes well with the unique white jam, with kadaif or halva, or pretzels, plenty of choices, indeed! Gradually, Samovodskata charshiya is waking up. Soon it is lively and multicoloured, just like in the old days. And even when the cobbled street is packed with people, you don’t want to leave: there is so much to explore and enjoy- one can spend hours in the craftsmen’s workshops- pottery, woodcarving, weaving, icon painting- a real kaleidoscope of art pieces, emotions, flavours, senses. And, of course, the prevailing aroma of the Bulgarian rose that you cannot but take with you forever.
It is always hard to leave one such place but there is so much more to admire in Veliko Tarnovo! Samovodskata charshiya is just one of its magics.
We invite you to read the first part of the article here: